Capri - Big Brake Job 2

I asked other Capri Club members about the best place to have the front callipers reconditioned as the company that I used for many years seemed to be not as good as it once was. Several suggested Slacks Creek Brake & Clutch Service. A quick call indicated that the job could be done with prices quoted.  I took my shoe box, complete with front callipers & rear cylinders, down to them on Friday morning & they were ready Monday morning - very prompt service. Total cost was $398.20 (Recondition callipers-$120 each + pistons if required & these were needed so extra $36 each side; rear wheel cylinders 2@ $25 - cheaper that fixing the old ones). The new rear cylinders (IRS Part No P6984) were an exact replacement & fitted without difficulty.



Next bit was putting everything back together again. The front callipers went on easily complete with looking tabs. The rotors looked pretty good so they were left as is. When I went to replace the pads, I realised that there were no backing plates. I just happened to have an old spare calliper with a set so I cleaned these up & slid them on as well as connecting the brake hoses.
Then to the back which was a lot more difficult. After one incorrect attempt, I realised that the hand brake adjustment lever needs to go on first, together with the rubber boot (I wish I could have located some new ones but I have no idea where to source them). The lever needs to be held in place while the cylinder is fitted with the spring metal clips. After failing a few times, I used a thick rubber band to hold the lever in place as it fits into the top of the cylinder. The clips are not easy to slide in as the top one fouls the adjustment lever. Again, with a few sprays of WD40 & several attempts the clips mesh together.
Next the brake lines needed to be attached. I was concerned that the old line connecting bolts would not fit but after meshing the threads in carefully & tightening as much by hand they went right into the cylinder without any dramas. Then the hand brake adjustment screws needed to inserted into the bottom of the cylinders. The old ones took a considerable amount of cleaning & fitted in perfectly. As mentioned earlier, make sure the correct screw goes in the correct side. Then the brake shoes went on together with the spring clips that hold them in place. Before I adjusted the hand brake, I tried the hub to make sure everything was fitting correctly.



Next was to refill the master cylinder to check for leaks but before that could be done, there was some dirty looking residue in the master that I wanted to remove. Nothing I had was suitable or clean enough so a trip to Supercheap was in order. There I found an evil looking syringe & with that I was able to suck out all the unwanted fluid.

 

 

I filled both chambers of the master with new Dot 4 brake fluid, as recommended. As I waited for this to flow through the system, I removed the rear hubs again & adjusted the hand brake screws. I wound both out about 10 mm, tried the hand brake & it seemed good.

Next big task was to bleed the system. The first is the front RH & no fluid seemed to be coming down the pipe. I kept on pumping the brake pedal slowing & still nothing. OK, I thought I will then do the front LH side. Immediately, I noticed fluid all over the floor & fluid dripping down the calliper. A few words were said & then the connecting line was tightened properly & all was well.

Two goes at bleeding the three wheels & I was happy with the firm brake pedal. Next, all the wheels went on & the first test drive went well. Good even brakes, good pedal but the handbrake is not quite there & I will need to adjust the screws a little more.

For me, I was pleased with the result but there were a few hours that went into the job so it pays not to be in too much of a hurry for a task like this.