For several months I have experienced difficulty in changing down from second to first gear in the Borg Warner 35 auto gearbox in the white XL. All other shifts are smooth & shift up & down OK. I have tried adjustments but the same problem existed from 2 to 1 unless the car was virtually stopped.
I had another try on the weekend & went quite radical on the length of the kick down cable, adjusting it to almost the end of the adjustment thread. A short drive around my streets resulted in the gearbox kicking down from 2 to 1 which was a big improvement so I will be more convinced if it still is doing this on a longer run.
I also fixed a small leak in the sump plug of my green deluxe after the recent oil change. I wrote in a previous post how this plug has always caused a problem. I though that I might have to drain the sump & refit the plug. However, I was in luck using my pink plastic plumber's tape. I loosened the plug as much as possible without having a major oil spill & then wrapped several layers of tape around the exposed thread. Then I retightened the plug and to my delight, there was no more leaking. Good stuff that plumber's tape!
Sunday, 11 January 2015
Sunday, 4 January 2015
Capri - Headlight Replacement
Those that follow this blog might remember my attempt to replace the front headlights with a pair I bought online & subsequently did not fit. (Refer to my bog on 15 Jan 2014). Over the past months I have collected several replacements from club members so it was time to try again.
As you can see in the picture, the original LHS light is very corroded with all the silver backing coming away. It is the non-sealed Lucas type with the parking light located under the main globe, as indicated in the picture.
I first tried another Lucas sealed beam but it was stuffed so of not much help.
I had another strange brand sealed beam which did work but only had the small clear hole under the main connections for the parking light.
The only alternative, until I can get a better replacement is to attach the parking light just over the clear hole so that it will shine through. I used Selleys Knead It to do this. It is a very handy epoxy putty which is capable of holding the globe unit in place while it sets. I have attempted to show this in the pictures. This seems to be the only solution until I can find a light surround that is the same as my original.
As you can see in the picture, the original LHS light is very corroded with all the silver backing coming away. It is the non-sealed Lucas type with the parking light located under the main globe, as indicated in the picture.
I first tried another Lucas sealed beam but it was stuffed so of not much help.
I had another strange brand sealed beam which did work but only had the small clear hole under the main connections for the parking light.
The only alternative, until I can get a better replacement is to attach the parking light just over the clear hole so that it will shine through. I used Selleys Knead It to do this. It is a very handy epoxy putty which is capable of holding the globe unit in place while it sets. I have attempted to show this in the pictures. This seems to be the only solution until I can find a light surround that is the same as my original.
Capri - Oil Change
If you own a classic car, there is always something to do or to improve.
My first job for 2015 was to change the oil in both cars as it was long overdue even though they do very few miles.
I decided not to change filters this time as they are relatively new and it often takes me ages to fix the oil leaks that result especially from the green 1970 model that has the older style oil filter attachment.
I also have learnt not to overfill these engines as it results in huge plumes of blue smoke coming out the other end.
I have calculated the following conversion rates and with these amounts of oil they line up with the marks on the dipsticks pretty well.
Oil change with filters - 4 litres (7.2 pints)
Oil filter - .375 litres (.66 pints) so change without filter - 3.6 litres
Manual gearbox - 1.1 litres
Automatic gearbox - 6.4 litres
The only problem after doing the change to both cars is the sump plug on the green car tends to have a small leak. I hope I can fix this without having to redrain the oil. This plug has caused me grief in the past as the thread is just so so & I really don't want to strip it. I used Valvoline XLD which was on sale last month at Autobarn.
My first job for 2015 was to change the oil in both cars as it was long overdue even though they do very few miles.
I decided not to change filters this time as they are relatively new and it often takes me ages to fix the oil leaks that result especially from the green 1970 model that has the older style oil filter attachment.
I also have learnt not to overfill these engines as it results in huge plumes of blue smoke coming out the other end.
I have calculated the following conversion rates and with these amounts of oil they line up with the marks on the dipsticks pretty well.
Oil change with filters - 4 litres (7.2 pints)
Oil filter - .375 litres (.66 pints) so change without filter - 3.6 litres
Manual gearbox - 1.1 litres
Automatic gearbox - 6.4 litres
The only problem after doing the change to both cars is the sump plug on the green car tends to have a small leak. I hope I can fix this without having to redrain the oil. This plug has caused me grief in the past as the thread is just so so & I really don't want to strip it. I used Valvoline XLD which was on sale last month at Autobarn.
Wednesday, 24 December 2014
Capri - Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year
Happy Christmas to all you Capri enthusiasts.
There won't be much activity on the Capri front for the next few weeks but I will continue to post my ramblings in the New Year.
Take care!
There won't be much activity on the Capri front for the next few weeks but I will continue to post my ramblings in the New Year.
Take care!
Friday, 19 December 2014
Capri - No Go & Fuel Pump
As I mentioned in my previous posting, my green XL would not start not matter what I tried. It was going fine when I parked it in the garage but I had not started it for nearly 2 weeks. I was sure it was an electrical problem so in the course of trying to sort things out, I put in a new set of points, tried a different coil & condenser, cleaned the plugs & still no go. There seemed to be a good spark at the dizzy & at the plugs but even despite pouring some fuel down the throat of the carbie, it still wouldn't start.
Time to consult Dr Google & my neighbourhood expert. Kevin, my good neighbour who knows everything about classic cars, came & we went trough all the possibilities. He felt that the problem was lack of fuel & by testing the flow of petrol from the inlet hose thought the fuel pump may be the problem.
I think that I replaced this pump when I first got this car but it didn't take long to take it off-just the two bolts.
I undid the 6 screws holding the pump together & found that all the parts seemed in good order with the diaphragm intact with no splits or problems. In fact, it was in pretty good condition. I did replace the O ring as the original one seemed a little stretched. Then I just screwed it back together & refitted the pump.
To ensure that there was sufficient fuel in the carbie, I attached a hose to the inlet & with a small funnel, poured in about a quarter of a cup of fuel. Then, I reattached all the fuel hoses to the pump, filter & carbie and crossed my fingers in the hope that it would start.
One quick turn & it fired up straight away & ran like a charm! What a lot of stuffing about!!
My advisor also suggested that the carbie float may have become stuck (due to little use over the last few weeks) & thus not allowing fuel to enter the carbie.
Whatever, it is back to normal & running well as it usually does.
It is all good fun - well sometimes!!
Time to consult Dr Google & my neighbourhood expert. Kevin, my good neighbour who knows everything about classic cars, came & we went trough all the possibilities. He felt that the problem was lack of fuel & by testing the flow of petrol from the inlet hose thought the fuel pump may be the problem.
I think that I replaced this pump when I first got this car but it didn't take long to take it off-just the two bolts.
I undid the 6 screws holding the pump together & found that all the parts seemed in good order with the diaphragm intact with no splits or problems. In fact, it was in pretty good condition. I did replace the O ring as the original one seemed a little stretched. Then I just screwed it back together & refitted the pump.
To ensure that there was sufficient fuel in the carbie, I attached a hose to the inlet & with a small funnel, poured in about a quarter of a cup of fuel. Then, I reattached all the fuel hoses to the pump, filter & carbie and crossed my fingers in the hope that it would start.
One quick turn & it fired up straight away & ran like a charm! What a lot of stuffing about!!
My advisor also suggested that the carbie float may have become stuck (due to little use over the last few weeks) & thus not allowing fuel to enter the carbie.
Whatever, it is back to normal & running well as it usually does.
It is all good fun - well sometimes!!
Tuesday, 16 December 2014
Capri - Ignition Switch
After little activity over the last two weeks, I could not get my green 1600 Deluxe to fire up. More of that story in a future blog. In the process, the ignition switch became very loose so I thought I would clean it up and tighten the assembly. The photos show the switch and how it fits into the steering wheel console.
To get to this stage, just undo the LH bolt securing the steering wheel to the dash as the plastic lug holds the console in place. Loosen the RH nut a little as this gives a little more movement. There are two screws on the side of the console holding it together & they need to be removed.
Having it out, I thought I would clean it a little & put a few squirts of WD40 around the key & switching mechanism. So I could assemble it correctly, I marked the two sections with black marker pen as in the photo.
Little did I know that after a few squirts of the magic stuff, both marks rubbed off & I was then confused how it went back together correctly. The metal switch had numbers for the wiring but the plastic bit had nothing. Great! If this didn't go back together correctly, all hell would break loose in the wiring department.
I consulted all my manuals, parts books & nothing helped. I used the wiring diagram to list all the wires & their locations but not a lot of help. What next?
Having a second Capri can be very useful at times so I should be able to look at it & that will tell me easily. I undid the plastic bits & surprise, surprise!!. The switch was a completely different unit (RH photo). See the photos. So between 1970 & 1972, that was a change that was made.
Back to my initial problem - how does this go back together correctly?
Looking at both sections, I noticed there is a small ridge on both sections so I figured if this was aligned it would be correct. I looked carefully at the placement of all the prongs & connectors & it looked pretty right. In fact, when you look carefully & try the different positions, it will not align properly so really there is only one correct way. It is just that no one tells you this or prints it in any manuals (that I could find!).
After pushing it securely & reconnecting the battery leads, there was no smoke & everything worked OK, except the car still did not start. That is another story.
So the moral of this blog is - either mark better or take good pictures of how things go together & you will save heaps of time.
To get to this stage, just undo the LH bolt securing the steering wheel to the dash as the plastic lug holds the console in place. Loosen the RH nut a little as this gives a little more movement. There are two screws on the side of the console holding it together & they need to be removed.
Having it out, I thought I would clean it a little & put a few squirts of WD40 around the key & switching mechanism. So I could assemble it correctly, I marked the two sections with black marker pen as in the photo.
Little did I know that after a few squirts of the magic stuff, both marks rubbed off & I was then confused how it went back together correctly. The metal switch had numbers for the wiring but the plastic bit had nothing. Great! If this didn't go back together correctly, all hell would break loose in the wiring department.
I consulted all my manuals, parts books & nothing helped. I used the wiring diagram to list all the wires & their locations but not a lot of help. What next?
Having a second Capri can be very useful at times so I should be able to look at it & that will tell me easily. I undid the plastic bits & surprise, surprise!!. The switch was a completely different unit (RH photo). See the photos. So between 1970 & 1972, that was a change that was made.
Back to my initial problem - how does this go back together correctly?
Looking at both sections, I noticed there is a small ridge on both sections so I figured if this was aligned it would be correct. I looked carefully at the placement of all the prongs & connectors & it looked pretty right. In fact, when you look carefully & try the different positions, it will not align properly so really there is only one correct way. It is just that no one tells you this or prints it in any manuals (that I could find!).
After pushing it securely & reconnecting the battery leads, there was no smoke & everything worked OK, except the car still did not start. That is another story.
So the moral of this blog is - either mark better or take good pictures of how things go together & you will save heaps of time.
Tuesday, 9 December 2014
Ford Capri - Clutch Cable
I have been meaning for some time to buy a spare clutch cable. These seem to break at the most inopportune time so having one in the car can sometimes be handy.
I recently purchased this NOS Quinton Hazell cable from the UK for $33.50 including postage, which I considered to be a pretty good price. It was delivered to my door in just over a week. Much cheaper than buying it locally and also illustrates the variety of NOS available in the UK.
I recently purchased this NOS Quinton Hazell cable from the UK for $33.50 including postage, which I considered to be a pretty good price. It was delivered to my door in just over a week. Much cheaper than buying it locally and also illustrates the variety of NOS available in the UK.
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