The next to discuss is the voltmeter. Originally I had an ammeter to fit but after researching the best way to fit it, I decided against fitting it due to safety concerns. Many classic cars owners expressed concern about the risk of fire as the ammeter is wired in series to live wires under the dash. If there is a problem with the wires or the gauge, then it could get a little exciting. Instead I went for the safer voltmeter which is wired in parallel to a switched wire. In other words, a wire that is only live after the ignition has been turned on. Installing the gauge on the bracket is easy but finding a suitable wiring point under the dash is the key. I consulted the wiring diagram in the manual & then, using my lighted circuit tester found several wires under the dash near the ash tray. One is permanently live & may have been connected to the clock, if fitted. I then located a double connector where the radio was wired into one & the other side was free. Again, testing this plug with the ignition turned on indicated this would be suitable. Here are some photos.
The rather complex looking wiring section shows the voltmeter wired in via the green positive wire & the black earth wire. This section then plugs into the connector under the dash as per the left photo.
Wiring in the lights then proved another challenge as three gauges had the red wires but only one, the voltmeter had a negative. Also, the Capri lights can be turned on without the ignition so again finding the best place was interesting. The earthing of the lights & the voltmeter could go to the same good earth point. This is how the panel looked when attached with all the wires exposed.
Now to add another variable was the tachometer. The first problem was were to place it. The obvious place was some where to the right of the dash pod but there are no real places to firmly attach it without drilling holes. I then tried some double sided tape but the gauge fell off after about 20 minutes. Next was some stronger Velcro tape. That seemed much more promising so I then went ahead with the wiring. The tachometer has 4 wires: red for power, green to the negative side of the coil, black for an earth & white for lights. I joined the power in wire to the same junction as for the voltmeter & radio, the green went through the firewall to the coil, the earth was also joined with the same wires from the other gauges & bolted to the dash frame, the light wire went with the other lights to a junction under the dash that linked to the car lights which are quite independent of the ignition. Here are some pics.
Unfortunately, the Velcro tape wasn't strong enough & the tachometer fell on the floor after a short road test. For the moment I have just attached it on the RHS parcel tray area until I find a better solution. I have also tried to make the other gauges look a bit better with some tape and a thin board insert underneath. A bit more to do until I am really finished.
With the first turn of the ignition, I was quite apprehensive & was hoping that no sparks & smoke would appear but after double checking all the wiring, the car started & all the gauges were operating as one would expect.
Was it all worth it? Maybe, so we shall see.
Several years ago I bought a collection of gauges to fit to my green Capri. Being a Deluxe model, it only has a temperature & fuel gauge as standard equipment whereas my white XL has the full complement of gauges (tachometer, fuel, temp, oil pressure & voltage). I have started this project several times but each time I gave it away as being too difficult. The main problem was how to fit the gauges without damaging the original sections of the dash and, secondly, not making them too obvious. The additional gauges I wanted to fit were a tachometer, vacuum gauge, oil pressure gauge & an ammeter. I have always liked vacuum gauges but unfortunately I could not obtain a genuine Smiths old school type in reasonable condition & at a reasonable price. I did find a suitable alternative.
After a bit of thought & experimentation, I put together a small metal bracket that would sit under the dash & bolt onto the brackets under the dash. This was attached to a 3 gauge mounting bracket. Here is what it looks like.
Let me discuss connecting each gauge with the easiest first, the vacuum gauge. The mounting bracket for this gauge was a different style to the others & did not fit so I had to improvise with some Selley's metal putty. In the picture, you can see it moulded around the gauge (the one on the left) as it is pressed into the bracket. Then it was very easy to attach the plastic tube to the gauge. The tube was then run through the firewall to the brake booster which had a spare outlet. This was a very similar size to the tubing so, with a little plastic adapter, it fitted really easily. Here are a few photos.
Next was the oil pressure gauge in the middle of the three. This required the small plastic hose to be fitted tightly to the back of the gauge & the hose run through the firewall to the oil pressure location on the RH side of the engine block. As I wanted to keep the oil pressure light, I had to source a suitable brass fitting so as to attach the light module as well as the tube from the gauge. After a visit to my local Autobarn, one was located very quickly & matched the engine thread (I think about 3/8) & it all screwed together quite easily. Here are some photos. I will explain all the wiring later.
