If you are an avid reader of my blog, you may recall that several weeks ago, I accidently came across a copy of the Capri Parts & Accessories Catalogue at the Willowbank Autospectacular Swap. After a little bargaining, I now have added the catalogue to my Capri library.
The best part about this publication is that it has many comprehensive diagrams with all parts labelled. It is far more comprehensive in this respect than the big manuals. It has parts for both the 1600 & V6 Capris.
Because this copy was published in October 1970, it doesn't have some parts relating to the later 1971 & 1972 models. Also all the part numbers listed refer to the genuine Ford parts which in most cases are no longer available but do provide a reference point.
I have already used the diagrams several times when completing the assembly of the front suspension.
If you can find a copy of this, try & grab it!
Tuesday, 22 April 2014
Capri - Parts List
Here is my updated parts list. Please note it is only relevant to the 1600 Kent crossflow engines.
Air cleaner (Ramflo) RF6585
Air filter A232 (Ryco); WA232 (Wesfil)
Antenna-Top Guard Mount Aeropro AP30
Ball joint boot kit Repco TE2
Brake Seals Girling 64320874 VP22
Bumper Bar Bolt Kit BB1011 (Rare Spares-HZ Holden Ute)
Carburettor Rebuild Kit FD300 (Ford Carb); WE-800X (Weber)
Clutch Kit Exedy FMK-6098
Clutch throw out bearing FKG 6W 15057
Condensor GL103 (Lucas)
Con rod bearings 4B1043.STD (ACL)
Disc brake pads DB625BS(Bendix); DB525 (Bendix); ZB525S (Zircon)
Distributor cap GL278 (Bosch)
Distributor rotor GL256 (Bosch)
Distributor (electronic) Ford 45D-Electronic red rotor (Accuspark-UK)
Extractor gasket SP100801
Fan belt 11AO785 (Bosch)
Front engine oil seal Repco PR6342
Front wheel bearings 1922/1988 & LM11949/LM11910
Fuel pump G448 (Goss); FPM-049 (Fuelmiser)
Fuel pump diaphragm kit 199VC (Goss)
Gasket set – head FHS.750 or CH.750; CH750MT (Monotorque, ACL)
Gasket set – bottom FCS.750 or FH.750
Headlight 1059 (Hella); VG-VH Valiant H4 Halogen; Hillman
Hunter; Torana LH
Indicator flasher Tridon HD12
Ignition coil Bosch GT40R
Ignition leads TG 4022 (Eagle), Bosch 4044i
Lower control arms BJ124(RH), BJ125(LH) (Roadsafe or Protex)
Oil filter AFLE227(Motorcraft); VO32 (Valvoline); Z62 (Ryco); ROF-22 (Repco)
PCV valve SS502 (Dufor)
Points GL19V (Lucas); GF82V (Autolite)
Piston rings BR1040.(60) (Grant); C1540.Std
Rear brake linings E1169 (Zircon)
Rear brake shoes SBS1750
Rear engine oil seal Repco PR7174
Rear shock absorbers 82022 (Munro, Gabriel); 8046 8046 (Pedders); 42149 Hyd Air; B46-0763 (Bilstein)
Spark plugs W6DC(Bosch);BP6ES(NGK); BPR6EIX (NGK Iridium)
Starter solenoid SW3, Ingram 9557
Tappet cover gasket JM478EZ (ACL)
Thermostat TT1-192 (Tridon); TT2000-192 (Tridon,Super Flow);Gasket TTG4 (Tridon)
Thermostat Housing WO3 (Kilkenny Castings)); Gasket GK3
Throttle cable 487 (Alexander-UK)
Tie rod rubber boot RB518K (Roadsafe)
Top Radiator House 05-0108 (Gates); 05-0108 (Mackay)
Transmission-auto filter kit RTK24 (Ryco)
Water pump PWP181 (Protex); WP730 is also listed but may not fit
Water temp sender TTS023 (Tridon)
Welch plugs QHB20 & QHB1058
Supercheap (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/spare-parts/parts-finder.aspx)
Ringwood Auto Parts (www.ringwoodauto.com.au)
Accuspark (electronic ignitions – UK) (www.accuspark.co.uk)
American Autos Catalogue (www.AmericanAutos.com.au)
Pedders Catalogue (www.pedders.com.au)
Procomp Electronics (www.procompelectronics.com)
Crow Cams (www.crowcams.com.au)
CAPRI 1600 & 1600GT PARTS LIST (revised 4/2014)
Air cleaner (Ramflo) RF6585
Air filter A232 (Ryco); WA232 (Wesfil)
Antenna-Top Guard Mount Aeropro AP30
Ball joint boot kit Repco TE2
Brake Seals Girling 64320874 VP22
Bumper Bar Bolt Kit BB1011 (Rare Spares-HZ Holden Ute)
Carburettor Rebuild Kit FD300 (Ford Carb); WE-800X (Weber)
Clutch Kit Exedy FMK-6098
Clutch throw out bearing FKG 6W 15057
Condensor GL103 (Lucas)
Con rod bearings 4B1043.STD (ACL)
Disc brake pads DB625BS(Bendix); DB525 (Bendix); ZB525S (Zircon)
Distributor cap GL278 (Bosch)
Distributor rotor GL256 (Bosch)
Distributor (electronic) Ford 45D-Electronic red rotor (Accuspark-UK)
Extractor gasket SP100801
Fan belt 11AO785 (Bosch)
Front engine oil seal Repco PR6342
Front wheel bearings 1922/1988 & LM11949/LM11910
Fuel pump G448 (Goss); FPM-049 (Fuelmiser)
Fuel pump diaphragm kit 199VC (Goss)
Gasket set – head FHS.750 or CH.750; CH750MT (Monotorque, ACL)
Gasket set – bottom FCS.750 or FH.750
Headlight 1059 (Hella); VG-VH Valiant H4 Halogen; Hillman
Hunter; Torana LH
Indicator flasher Tridon HD12
Ignition coil Bosch GT40R
Ignition leads TG 4022 (Eagle), Bosch 4044i
Lower control arms BJ124(RH), BJ125(LH) (Roadsafe or Protex)
Oil filter AFLE227(Motorcraft); VO32 (Valvoline); Z62 (Ryco); ROF-22 (Repco)
PCV valve SS502 (Dufor)
Points GL19V (Lucas); GF82V (Autolite)
Piston rings BR1040.(60) (Grant); C1540.Std
Rear brake linings E1169 (Zircon)
Rear brake shoes SBS1750
Rear engine oil seal Repco PR7174
Rear shock absorbers 82022 (Munro, Gabriel); 8046 8046 (Pedders); 42149 Hyd Air; B46-0763 (Bilstein)
Spark plugs W6DC(Bosch);BP6ES(NGK); BPR6EIX (NGK Iridium)
Starter solenoid SW3, Ingram 9557
Tappet cover gasket JM478EZ (ACL)
Thermostat TT1-192 (Tridon); TT2000-192 (Tridon,Super Flow);Gasket TTG4 (Tridon)
Thermostat Housing WO3 (Kilkenny Castings)); Gasket GK3
Throttle cable 487 (Alexander-UK)
Tie rod rubber boot RB518K (Roadsafe)
Top Radiator House 05-0108 (Gates); 05-0108 (Mackay)
Transmission-auto filter kit RTK24 (Ryco)
Water pump PWP181 (Protex); WP730 is also listed but may not fit
Water temp sender TTS023 (Tridon)
Welch plugs QHB20 & QHB1058
Burtons
Catalogue (UK) (www.burtonpower.com)
Yesterford
(Aust) (www.yesterford.com)Supercheap (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/spare-parts/parts-finder.aspx)
Ringwood Auto Parts (www.ringwoodauto.com.au)
Accuspark (electronic ignitions – UK) (www.accuspark.co.uk)
American Autos Catalogue (www.AmericanAutos.com.au)
Pedders Catalogue (www.pedders.com.au)
Procomp Electronics (www.procompelectronics.com)
Crow Cams (www.crowcams.com.au)
Tuesday, 8 April 2014
Capri - Front Suspension 3
Finally, it’s
back together & on the road. The delay related to getting a pair of lower
control arms. I thought I had a set on EBay but lost the auction at the last
minute so I ordered a set through Ringwood Auto Spares for $143 delivered.
These were a lot cheaper than I could source at any of my local auto shops,
even with discount. I thought they were Roadsafe but turned out to be a Wasp brand
but they are all made in Taiwan, possibly in the same factory.
I had bolted on the strut towers so it was time to bolt in the control arms. Then I noticed a small difference. The sleeve on the inside of the new arms was slightly larger than the original part. (Pic on left & new arm is the one on RHS) If I replaced it with the same bolts, I figured that there would be some very slight movement. The new sleeves suited a 10mm bolt so I had to buy two new ones & then drill the holes on the chassis mounts to suit. That took about 1 minute per side so it was no big deal but again it illustrates that non genuine parts may not always be exactly the same as the old ones. (Pic on the right with the new 10mm bolt). The moral of the story is keep your old bits until everything is working well.
I used the spring clamp to help me get the lower arm into the correct spot after connecting it loosely to the strut & the stabiliser bar. A few light taps with the hammer were necessary to get the new bolts completely through. Then all the bolts connecting the struts, chassis mount & stabiliser bar were tightened to the correct tensions. (That’s a good thing about having a manual.) Then the discs went back on & the brake lines attached. Then the tie rod ends, although I had problems with the thread on one. It may have been damaged slightly when I disconnected them. A few thread cleanouts with a tap & die fixed it up & it went back together well. (Bottom pic)
Next job was to ensure everything had been tightened & all the split pins replaced. Next was to bleed the brakes. It took a few pumps to get the fluid through but the pedal pressure is really good. I had decided to check all the tyres & put the best two on the front. That meant I had to make a quick trip to the tyre man for a balance, which he did for free – very good! So after all the tyres were in the correct places, I checked the front wheels to find there was a bit of movement on both sides. This meant having to remove the split pins & tightening the bearing nut a little. This soon eliminated the movement on both sides. Then it was time to let it down off the stands & jack. Lastly, it was time to tighten up the bolts on top of the strut towers. They were quite loose when the car was sitting on its own weight. It is important to tension these to the correct specifications, keeping the metals tabs turned towards the engine. All done & now for road test.
Well, on a little run close to home there was no wheel wobbles, no steering clatter & no brake rattle – so that was all good. There is still too much noise coming from the bonnet area on decent bumps, so some more work is needed is adjusting the rubbers around the bonnet. That can wait for another time but, at least for now, it is going well & is all back together.
I had bolted on the strut towers so it was time to bolt in the control arms. Then I noticed a small difference. The sleeve on the inside of the new arms was slightly larger than the original part. (Pic on left & new arm is the one on RHS) If I replaced it with the same bolts, I figured that there would be some very slight movement. The new sleeves suited a 10mm bolt so I had to buy two new ones & then drill the holes on the chassis mounts to suit. That took about 1 minute per side so it was no big deal but again it illustrates that non genuine parts may not always be exactly the same as the old ones. (Pic on the right with the new 10mm bolt). The moral of the story is keep your old bits until everything is working well.
I used the spring clamp to help me get the lower arm into the correct spot after connecting it loosely to the strut & the stabiliser bar. A few light taps with the hammer were necessary to get the new bolts completely through. Then all the bolts connecting the struts, chassis mount & stabiliser bar were tightened to the correct tensions. (That’s a good thing about having a manual.) Then the discs went back on & the brake lines attached. Then the tie rod ends, although I had problems with the thread on one. It may have been damaged slightly when I disconnected them. A few thread cleanouts with a tap & die fixed it up & it went back together well. (Bottom pic)
Next job was to ensure everything had been tightened & all the split pins replaced. Next was to bleed the brakes. It took a few pumps to get the fluid through but the pedal pressure is really good. I had decided to check all the tyres & put the best two on the front. That meant I had to make a quick trip to the tyre man for a balance, which he did for free – very good! So after all the tyres were in the correct places, I checked the front wheels to find there was a bit of movement on both sides. This meant having to remove the split pins & tightening the bearing nut a little. This soon eliminated the movement on both sides. Then it was time to let it down off the stands & jack. Lastly, it was time to tighten up the bolts on top of the strut towers. They were quite loose when the car was sitting on its own weight. It is important to tension these to the correct specifications, keeping the metals tabs turned towards the engine. All done & now for road test.
Well, on a little run close to home there was no wheel wobbles, no steering clatter & no brake rattle – so that was all good. There is still too much noise coming from the bonnet area on decent bumps, so some more work is needed is adjusting the rubbers around the bonnet. That can wait for another time but, at least for now, it is going well & is all back together.
Capri - Autospectacular, Willowbank-6 April 2014
The number of cars & spectators at this event would
suggest it has become a popular event on the classic car calendar. This was our
club’s main event for April & I took my green 1600 for the drive, some 40 minutes west of Brisbane. The car is running well at the moment & I am pleased about that.
Once set up, we went for a wander through the swap meet section that had a good turnout of vendors but, as usual, little for Capri fans. However, I actually saw & bought a Capri Parts & Accessories Catalogue (copy). The good thing about this publication is that it has expanded diagrams all the way through. I will post a few pictures of this in the future.
All the usual Holden & Falcons were evident plus a good selection of other makes & models. Then we spied the beautiful blue V8 Celica of one of our Capri Club members. It is a real work of art as the pictures show. There were some other interesting cars such as the Fairlane with the retractable roof that had an area the size of a ute tray in which to store it. Or the classic Divco van, beautifully trimmed inside, complete with rear wheels about a metre in width. (There is a big ad about this vehicle in the latest Unique Cars, p55.)
In the distance, the loud noises suggested that the drags had started so we headed up to the strip to watch the really keen guys. We just arrived as very mean looking red Capri turned up for shootout. It was serious V8 & went like the clappers. Some seriously fast street cars lined up against each other. We waited for this awesome sounding Cobra to do its stuff but after one false start, it made a pretty ordinary run. This event is really good for those enthusiasts who want to test their cars on the strip & that is one very good reason for the large attendance.
Once set up, we went for a wander through the swap meet section that had a good turnout of vendors but, as usual, little for Capri fans. However, I actually saw & bought a Capri Parts & Accessories Catalogue (copy). The good thing about this publication is that it has expanded diagrams all the way through. I will post a few pictures of this in the future.
All the usual Holden & Falcons were evident plus a good selection of other makes & models. Then we spied the beautiful blue V8 Celica of one of our Capri Club members. It is a real work of art as the pictures show. There were some other interesting cars such as the Fairlane with the retractable roof that had an area the size of a ute tray in which to store it. Or the classic Divco van, beautifully trimmed inside, complete with rear wheels about a metre in width. (There is a big ad about this vehicle in the latest Unique Cars, p55.)
In the distance, the loud noises suggested that the drags had started so we headed up to the strip to watch the really keen guys. We just arrived as very mean looking red Capri turned up for shootout. It was serious V8 & went like the clappers. Some seriously fast street cars lined up against each other. We waited for this awesome sounding Cobra to do its stuff but after one false start, it made a pretty ordinary run. This event is really good for those enthusiasts who want to test their cars on the strip & that is one very good reason for the large attendance.
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